FERRY LAND
The average cradle to grave Vineyarder spends 1296 hours (54 days) of his life riding on the ferry, 864 hours (36 days) waiting in line, and 5184 hours (216 days) on stand-by. I gathered these statistics scientifically (on the stand-by line) chatting with three life long residents.
Before I moved to the Island I spent my ferry time like a tourist. Gawking at the scenery, trying to feed the seagulls or reading Best Guide. It was unheard of to spend the trip in your car. The children were dragged kicking and screaming from their gameboys and naps up to the deck for fresh air and the ‘ferry experience’ with all the other unhappy tourist children. Even after we moved here we thought it was sacrilegious to forgo the deck. Of course that changed the first time we crossed on a pre-dawn winter day. Believe me, our car seemed like the perfect little cocoon, waves rocking us back to sleep for a short time.
I thought living on Martha’s Vineyard would make me feel isolated, it being an island and all. I soon learned that in spite of the difficulty getting ferry tickets, most Vineyarders will leave the Island at the drop of a hat. Never mind that they don’t have a reservation. That’s what stand-by is for.
Since there is so much time spent in Island leaving and returning, Islanders have learned to use this time wisely. Being industrious types they use the ferry as an extension of their office or den. They carry knapsacks, duffle bags, totes or sturdy plastic shopping bags, usually from the Christmas Tree Shop, filled with all manner of busy work. They make a beeline to the tabled areas and set up their laptops. They go over their lists for B.J.’s and Kappy’s. Students study. High school sports teams talk strategy or, on the trip back, celebrate or commiserate. Neighbors visit. Dates are made. And God...what did people do without cell phones?
Children, not used to such temporal pursuits, behave much as they do at home. The little girls spend their time stalking doggies or whining. Little boys horse around, a very accurate visual if you think about it. Of course there is always napping which isn’t limited to the young.
One important function of the ferry is as a rendezvous. Especially during the holidays when people who found it necessary, for whatever reason, to move off Island, come home to visit. I have overheard some heartwarming reunions between former classmates and neighbors during these trips. I have heard some bizarre ones, too.
Last Christmas season, coming home from a shopping trip for Red Stocking, I listened to a couple of girls from the MVRH class of ‘03 catching up.
“Do you ever see Mary?” asked the first.
“Yeah,” said the second.
“Is she still going with John?” asked the first.
“No,” replied the second, “They got married the year after graduation, had a baby and got divorced last year.”
“Jeez!” said the first. “Have I been off Island that long?”
Honest-to-God.
It takes many years for a wash-ashore to learn the ferry knowledge that comes naturally to Islanders. For instance, on a rainy summer day there will not be enough seats inside for everyone. Unless you want to stand for 45 minutes you know what you have to do. And, standby is the Vineyarder’s friend but don’t try to come back without a reservation at the end of a school holiday, three day week-end or especially August 1st, no matter what day of the week it is. Knowing the freight boat schedule can be very helpful. In fact my favorite return trip is being last on the freight boat, the one you have to back onto. You are guaranteed first-off and the view is spectacular. I have discovered that when you are asked if you mind going on the Island Home lift, if you are in a hurry you should always reply no. This, apparently, is offered as a punishment for being early because the cars on the lift are always the final debarkees.
Most Islanders have a favorite ferry and preferred place in line--though first-on rarely guarantees first-off. For those who love water views, front row on the Governor or last on any freight boat you have to back on lets you feel like an ocean front homeowner sitting in the comfort of your living room. Speaking of backing on ferries, I always thought it could be a moneymaker to offer to load cars for Nervous Nellies. I once saw a guy who obviously didn’t trust the boat employee who was trying to load him. He was pretty close to one of those poles on the Martha’s Vineyard. Not thinking he could make it he slammed into reverse and backed up taking the side view mirror off his brand new car. I’ve learned that the best way to protect your car is to look into the eyes of the guy trying to load you as though you are in love and follow his every gesture. You have to trust.
A source of amusement during the summer is eavesdropping on the tourists. Island, as opposed to Urban Legends, can be hysterical. For instance, I heard a woman tell her friend she took the On Time ferry to Nantucket. And that James Taylor is the chef at the Outermost Inn. And that there is really a (fill in the blank) buried in John Belushi’s grave.
No matter when or why I go off Island, my favorite ferry ride is always the one that brings me home.
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